Barra Gitano Debuts with a Fresh Perspective

It’s not outside of the norm for restaurants to employ the flavours of a particular cuisine while stepping outside the box in terms of preparation, presentation and additional ingredients. This is how we end up with what was once coined as “fusion” cuisine (though that term has fallen out of favour)—think the ever-popular Korean tacos from Damso or Ancora’s Nikkei cuisine. It’s delicious and a fab way for us to enjoy beloved flavours in new ways. But, up until now Vancouver’s Mexican restaurants were (mostly) for long-held favourites like tacos, queso fundido, ceviche and quesadillas. 

Don’t get me wrong— that classic category is probably my personal all-time favourite. (My partner would tell you that I often say, “All I want is a bean and cheese burrito.”) And that of course is not to say that other restaurants haven’t been pushing boundaries in their own ways, they have and I love it—but Davie Village’s newest restaurant Barra Gitano has solidified a new kind of Mexican food here in Vancouver—and I’m all about it. 

In various cities along the Baja Coast in Mexico, you’ll find seafood preparations that feature Asian ingredients—that’s where Barra Gitano took me with their tiradito de atun. Tempura tuna tataki is served with a bright pineapple ponzu jus and topped with avocado, red onion, cucumber and fried leeks for a fresh take on a dish that was originally made famous in Ensenada. 

Other standout appetizers include those classic favourites—think salsa, a scallop and prawn tostada, but also a guacamole with a delightfully fresh take. Featuring roasted garlic and jalapeño, the ubiquitous dish has a deeper, caramelized flavour than your usual go-to, while a sprinkling of cotija packs a salty punch. Let’s just say the amount of restraint required to not double-dip is epic. 

The starter that sealed the deal for me, though, was the burrata. If you’ve been in the general vicinity of me lately, you would have heard me waxing on about how burrata is everywhere right now. It’s giving ‘hamachi crudo three years ago’ in that, yes, I’ll still always order it but also I’m looking for something new. Something fresh.

Barra Gitano answered my prayers with a mix of both Mexican and Spanish flavours. A peppery pistachio and cilantro pesto adorns the fresh cheese along with charred peaches and serrano ham. Each bite tastes of the waning days of summer in a way that feels both fleeting and everlasting. I thought about it for days afterwards. 

Drinks aren’t to be missed either. Like the signature margarita which isn’t just your regular lime and agave—it features guava and house-made curaçao which lends a tropical vibe that’s undeniably moreish. My heart also melted at the “Something Tiki” (which has a rum-punch vibe) and the sangria (which has been my drink of the summer)—a not-too-sweet mix of vino tinto, brandy and seasonal fruit that somehow comes out lighter and more drinkable than any other iteration I’ve had lately.

Items like lengua tacos that are prepared barbacoa-style maintain that taqueria-energy despite the playfulness of the rest of the menu. While the “Buñuelo de Barbacoa” takes you right back to the adventurous side with a crunch wrap-esque pocket of braised beef, pickled onions, guacamole, black beans, iceberg and cheddar cheese. Wherever your brain is taking you, you’re probably right: It really is that good. 

Garlic guajillo prawns served with wine chorizo and truffle mash add a sense of fine dining and Spanish flavours, while the birria noodle soup is a bit of comfort with its ramen vibes (it does come with the egg, too)—really highlighting how many flavours and styles are available at the new West End restaurant. 

Sure, there are dishes that speak to the way we’ve been eating and enjoying Mexican food in Vancouver for years (and this isn’t surprising since the chef also runs the beloved Ophelia and Monarca)—but there are also so many dishes pushing the boundaries on how we can enjoy Mexican flavours in new-to-me formats, with unique ingredients—which really is what culinary innovation is all about. And why I personally get excited to go out to eat in this city. 

P.S. They do have a late-night happy hour and a patio—in case you’re into that sort of universally loved thing, too.

Barra Gitano

1202 Davie St.