The atmosphere in Railtown’s newest Korean joint, Nabi House, iscozy from the get-go. An open-concept kitchen, where mother and son (chef Daniel Lee and mom Vivian) cook together, makes the 23-seat space feel like you’re hanging out in a friend’s living room. But it’s not just the coziness of the overall atmosphere that makes it feel like you’ve been invited into a friendly home—home-style recipes, warming soups and handmade condiments are the regular bill of fare.
So when I dig into the savoury, crispy Nokdu pancake ($15), I’m instantly flooded with the feeling of familial ease. The pancake itself has a near-crunchy outer layer, gently crisped on both sides. Inside the pressed-down patty is a soft cake of soaked and ground mung beans, with an ever-so-slight fermented taste by virtue of the addition of kimchi. A side of umami-rich soy-pickled jalapenos adds a layer of panache to the snack—a hint of spicy acidity plays on the tongue, while the soy-pickle flavour lulls the tastebuds back into comfort territory. Though it’s my first time eating this dish, its flavour smacks of familiarity. A version of the pancake is common in Korean households, but at Nabi, Chef Daniel has made it his own.
Nabi House
1889 Powell St.
nabihouse.ca
