Must-Try Vancouver Dish: Pistachio-Crusted Lamb from Méreon Bistro

It’s not often I travel from my home in the heart of downtown to West Vancouver, but a recent trip to Méreon is making combatting bridge traffic seem much more inconsequential. First, you must know that I romanticize my life and entering a French bistro-style restaurant that feels both quaint and oh-so European is peak romanticizing fodder. It was the glow of the room from outside that caught my eye at first, beckoning me as I tightened my coat to combat the cold November air. But upon entering an unplaceable but warm scent (somewhere between toasting bread and buttery onions) filled the air, as did the sound of live music. What did I tell you, romantic, right?

I highly recommend the foie terrine ($28) to those who imbibe, as well as the house-smoked sable fish ($41) which is a pitch-perfect iteration of a B.C. classic. The cocktails, too, are on point and if you’re not driving back to the city then the Monsieur Bocuse ($22), (a bourbon, campari and blood orange dream) is reason enough to reserve a corner table.

But then there’s the star of the night: the pistachio crusted rack of lamb ($54). Served with subtly truffled (but well-buttered) mashed potatoes, crispy-as-heck Brussels sprouts and a red wine jus that’s both deeply savoury and lightly acidic—the dish somehow feels like both Thanksgiving and Christmas. Like indulgence and a deft hand that knows restraint. The lamb itself is cooked to a perfect medium, and the pistachio crust adds both texture and, of course, a nuttiness that’s highlighted when treated as a foil to that balanced jus. All together, that one perfect bite (which is a bit of potato, lamb, jus and just one perfect sprout, obviously) is enough to bring me back to West Vancouver again and again.

Méreon 

1479 Clyde Avenue.