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In praise of honest food.
For over a decade our office were situated at Granville and 10th (the top floor of the Pottery Barn building) and even then the area, while pleasant and tony, was a bit of a lunchtime wasteland. There was West of course, but it was never much of an everyday place. There was Cactus and a now-departed outpost of Joey, but not a whole lot more. But if you were looking for a place that had a bit of quirk, a whole lot of Gallic flair, honest well-made food and a price point that worked for writers, there was only one spot: Café Salade de Fruits.
For the longest time I thought it was an outpost of Alliance Française, because everyone seemed to be speaking French and the menu skewed hard to the classics: duck confit, coq au vin. (It’s actually part of the Le Centre Culturel, a cultural centre for Francophones in Vancouver.) It was never going to knock Le Crocodile off its pedestal for haute cuisine, but it wasn’t trying to.
So why am I forcing you down my memory lane? Because I got an email from a friend last week saying that they’ve started to do takeout. As is usual, there was no big roll out or PR blitz—just a getting back to the elevated basics.
Full disclosure—I haven’t tried it yet: but the menu channels all the things I love: there’s the aforementioned duck confit, and at lunch there’s a daily omelette (so awesomely française). The prices are, as is the norm, great: a green salad with house dressing is $6.67, which is just sort of heartwarming, as is a tart tatin for $5.67. Restaurants need our help these days—all restaurants, and sometime I fear that grassroots spots like Salade de Fruits can fall under the radar. Let’s not let that happen.
Neal McLennan is the wine and spirits editor for Vancouver and Western Living magazines, where he susses out the wonderful (and occasionally weird) options for imbibing across Western Canada.
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