The Vanmag Guide to Perfume: How to Find Your Signature Scent

You don’t just want to pass the sniff test—you want to exude a fragrance so alluring, so magnificent, so undeniably you that everyone in your smell-radius is jealous. So, just for you, we asked the experts. There’s Irina Novak-Calki, co-owner of Scentrique, a downtown perfume store focused on niche brands. There’s Trang Lam, a DIY fragrance specialist at Aromatears Floral Co., where the scent-curious can take classes to make their own perfumes and diffuser oils. And there’s Matthew Meleg, a Calgary-based self-taught perfumer known for bold, distinctive products. Together, they’ve mixed up some aromatic advice. Smell ya later, hopefully.

1. Let the world waft to you.

Meleg’s advice for those new to perfumery? “Smell everything—fruit, spices, flowers, leaves, soil.” Learn how to identify (and describe) your favourite scents. “Perfume appreciation is like learning a new language,” he says. “The more you practice, the richer it becomes.”

2. Sniff before you buy. 

Novak-Calki cautions against influencer recommendations. It might be tempting to purchase a cute bottle that’s going viral on TikTok, but without olfactory smartphone technology (get on it, scientists!), there’s no way to know if it will work for you IRL.

3. Reset your smeller.

Shops will sometimes offer coffee beans for you to smell between products, but, really, you should get out. Literally. “Nothing works better than fresh air,” says Lam—bask in a breeze to make sure you’re not confusing your nose.

4. Don’t just nose it—know it.

For a truly unique product, look beyond big names to find a niche maker that really resonates with you. Meleg recommends educating yourself about small brands and their stories. “Perfumers are artists, composing with scent the way painters use colour or musicians use sound,” he says.

READ MORE: 10 Tips for Keeping Flowers Fresher, Longer

5. Mind your notes.

Fragrance 101: top notes (citrus, green, fruity) are your first impression, and last from a few minutes up to an hour. Middle notes (florals, light woods, powders) emerge later and last for one to two hours. Base notes (dark woods, musks) last the longest. “A fragrance is never just one scent; it’s an evolving journey on your skin,” says Novak-Calki.

6. Toss the tester papers.

While sample cards can be useful for narrowing down your search, our experts agree that the only way to reliably test a new smell is on your skin. “Skin chemistry plays a huge role in how a fragrance projects,” says Lam. Eau de parfum can be altered by your eau naturale.

7. Think inside the box.

All three aroma aficionados agree that perfumes and colognes are best stored in a dark, cool, dry place. “Original boxes are excellent for preserving stability and prolonging shelf life,” Novak-Calki adds—so don’t trash your perfume’s packaging, it’s specifically designed to keep it safe.

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8. Smell better, longer.

Spraying perfume on your wrists and rubbing them together is a waste of time (and money—some say it ruins a fragrance’s top notes). Lam says that products last the longest when sprayed on clothes and hair, and Novak-Calki suggests using a fragrance-free lotion pre-spritz to help lock it in.

9. Breathe in some backup.

Ask for help from your local perfume shop. Our experts say to look for someone who is knowledgeable, has a variety of products and won’t pressure you into buying anything—guidance is great, but you should explore at your own pace.