Campagnolo 70 wines, mainly regional Italian, with a sprinkling of rare B.C. bottles, half of them under $50, intelligently arranged from light to rich, to go with the rustic food. Must try Proprietor Tom Doughty’s very own 2006 Three Barrel Merlot, hand-made in Naramata, $70. 1020 Main St., 604-484-6018
Vij’s Waiting for a table? 60 interesting and unusual wines, dominated by appetizing whites from Alsace, Germany, and B.C. will pass the time in a trice. Must try Spicy, racy, lip-smackingly delicious Ehrenfelser from the Okanagan’s CedarCreek Estate Winery (pictured), $40. 1480 W. 11th Ave., 604-736-6664
Boneta A dozen eclectic charmers by the glass and bottle that change weekly, all priced between $35 and $75, supplemented by whatever sommelier Neil Ingram has “lurking off the list.” Must try Ignore the name, drink the wine: Jakoby-Mathy Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Kabinett Mosel 1999. Made for pork and sablefish, killer value, $11 glass; $50 bottle. 1 W. Cordova, 604-684-1844
Cru Approachable mix of the familiar and the oddball, colour-coded by straightforward descriptors like “Juicy,” “Smooth,” and “Big.” $40 to $60. Must try Owner Mark Taylor’s favourite Italian red, Brancaia Tre Rosso Toscana 2006, $60. 1459 W. Broadway, 604-677-4111
Blue Water Cafe Comprehensive, much-decorated list by Andrea Vescovi, our 2009 Sommelier of the Year. 1,100 labels, including just about every wine made for seafood. Must try Splurge with the festive Vilmart Grand Cellier Premier Cru non-vintage Champagne, beautiful Euro bubble to go with the signature seafood tower, $180. 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078

