Reviews: The Restaurant Power List

Four places to power-lunch right now.

Four places to power-lunch right now.

You won’t likely catch Bruno Wall standing in line at Ask for Luigi or Nat Bosa accepting a 5:45 Tuesday reservation for Kissa Tanto because that’s all that’s available. The powerful have a different set of requirements when selecting their restaurants: service, discretion, convenience and, yes, good food. Want to make like a mogul for your next lunch meeting? Here’s a cheat sheet on how to close the big (dining) deal.

restaurant

Hy’s

The prospectus As beautifully old-school as it gets: dim light, cold cocktails (even at lunch) and red meat. Where Don Draper would celebrate the McCann merger.

Power patron Jimmy Pattison

Off-the-menu dish A custom-cut—go big or go home—dry-aged  rib steak.

Power table The private room to the right as you walk in has seen a lifetime of over-the-top celebration dinners.

Closing-the-deal bottle Harlan Cabernet Napa Valley 2012  for $3,000.

restaurant

Giardino

The prospectus The classic yellow house has been replaced with a blend of modern and classicalItalian just a few doors away, but Umberto Menghi still has a Rolodex of power that any other restaurateur would kill for, plus a swank new contemporary room to boot.

Power patrons Peter Brown, Frank Giustra

Off-the-menu dish Venetian calf’s liver; Alba truffles on risotto in season (Oct. to Nov.).

Power table In the summer, it’s the round one on the patio; in the winter, the tables under the Venetian light.

Closing-the-deal bottle  How does a magnum of 1976 Taittinger sound, hotshot? $980.

restaurant

Yew

The prospectus This is Vancouver’s answer to New York’s famed Four Seasons restaurant—soaring ceilings, chill design and a mix of well-heeled locals and well-heeled travellers.

Power patrons Bob Rennie (every morning), Joe Segal (every lunch), Hassan Khosrowshahi

Off-the-menu dish A grilled cheese on sourdough was long Rennie’s order.

Power table If you want everyone to know you’re celebrating, the glassed-in wine room offers privacy (but not really); if you want real privacy, booth #115.

Closing-the-deal bottle Château Montrose 2000, $1,200.

The Vancouver Club

The prospectus The city’s seat of power since 1889, more than a few mayors and premiers have been selected within the tony confines of this granite block of importance. Inside, the wood panelling has wood panelling.

Power patrons A few, but let’s go for Canadians owner Jake Kerr and Robert Lee.

Off-the-menu dish This isn’t the place to flex your muscles with such gauche displays—have the massive slab of prime rib with tear-inducing horseradish like everybody else.

Power table No particular special one, but the atrium in summer and near the fireplace in winter are always well subscribed.

Closing-the-deal bottle A bottle of the Macallan 25 from your private whisky locker.

Neal McLennan

Neal McLennan

Neal McLennan is the wine and spirits editor for Vancouver and Western Living magazines, where he susses out the wonderful (and occasionally weird) options for imbibing across Western Canada.