Restaurants

Review: Is There Room for Zero Zero in This Pizza-Loving City?

Zero Zero Pizza's thick and doughy slices are filling but flawed.

By Neal McLennan / March 15, 2017

Zero Zero Pizza’s thick and doughy slices are filling but flawed.

This Gastown spot aims to break us up with our thin-crusted Neapolitan pizza crush with a thick, doughy dose of how (evidently) they do it in Rome: thick and doughy. The pizza comes in long rectangles, with pieces cut off to order and then reheated. I’m not sure if this reheating is traditionally Roman, but if it is, it ranks up there with men fighting lions on the list of bad decisions Romans have made over the course of human history. It turns the entire piece dry—there’s not enough cheese to withstand the degrees—and hardens the bottom into something resembling drywall. To be fair, it’s very filling, and at just under $5 for two scalene pieces it’s well priced, but even the friendly staff can’t change the fact that—regionally accurate or not—this place is sadly superfluous in our crowded pizza landscape.