Pimm’s Cup

As a rule we resist anything that smacks of fawning Anglophilia—that includes ascots, saying ‘“Cheerio,” and biweekly teeth brushing—but come summer we make an exception and indulge in the quintessential English cocktail: the Pimm’s Cup. It’s as refreshing as a cool breeze from the Orkneys, has both fruits and vegetables, and can easily be octupled in a pitcher for the troops. Alas, like all things Brit, it’s mired in hard and fast rules and traditions, which means that—like shamrock shakes and hockey playoffs—it’s here for only a short time. Come September it’s best put away with the white linen suit.

Garnish with a slice of cucumber (some bon vivants damn the torpedoes and go for a spear), slice of lemon, slice of orange. Serve in a tall Collins glass with lots of ice while humming “Rule Britannia.”