Wine List Once-Over: Hook Seabar

How's the wine list view from this English Bay newbie?

How’s the wine list view from this English Bay newbie?

The Spot: Hook Sea Bar, the newish seafood spot on Davie and Denman that aims to blend casual and quality with a bitchin’ view thrown in.The Theme: Tough to say, really. All things to all people, maybe?The First Impression: A lot of OK, which is o.k and little snippets of interest here and there.The Steal: The 100% Pinot Noir Rose from Le Vieux Pin is $24 at the winery and only $48 here – the rare only 2x mark-up, made even more special when it’s a more reasonably priced wine. Also, they’re offering the same great deal that Homer Street Cafe does on Moet—$125 for a $65 bottle of wine that’s normally subject to much higher mark-ups. And the Chablis from Brocard is only $70, on a $38 bottle of wine—I’ll have 2!The Gouge: I can’t really find any bottle that nudges overs 2.5 times mark-up except for the rose from la Vieille Ferme which at $36 for a $13 bottle of wine is perfectly fine.Cool Factor Bottle: Not a lot of wine nerd fodder here, but there’s a Pecorino and a Friulano, both on the esoteric side of Italian whites. And while Falanghina has become pretty mainstream, the bottle here, from Quintodecimo, is pretty rare and very, very tasty,The Head Scratcher: This is a seafood restaurant but the list has 23 bottles of red to only 19 bottles of white. And while I appreciate that red can frequently go with fish the list is overly heavy in beg reds—there’s 8 Cabernets or Cab/Merlot blends to 1 Gamay, which is a shameful ratio for a fish spot. (or any spot really)The Grade: B+. This is a list that is pretty straightforward and it’s balance is a little off, but the prices are dynamite, especially considering the prime real estate they sit on.

Neal McLennan

Neal McLennan

Neal McLennan is the wine and spirits editor for Vancouver and Western Living magazines, where he susses out the wonderful (and occasionally weird) options for imbibing across Western Canada.