Review: Reflections at Hotel Georgia
June 26, 2014
The best moment of a Reflections night comes near the end, when the server leans in to offer one last negroni or Belvedere and soda (from the "Gentleman" side of the menu) or-personal fave-mint julep in the sweating silver cup, and the electro music is saying yes, and the breezes are warm (or warmed by heat lamps), and the other guests are looking fine, and because you came early you've got great seats that everyone envies. You're at the centre of a rooftop deck at the centre of a hotel at the centre of everything, so you say, "Yes, I will have one more, thank you."
But if you're hungry, chef Ken Nakano's new menu of riffs on tapas is less magical. Patatas bravas (sauceless but savoury), yes…but why with smoked aioli? Pea croquettes…don't, said the server. Half a grilled game hen…tasty, but sour tomatoes? And shouldn't tapas be shareable? And couldn't there be less paprika, more salads?