Best Victoria 2014
May 2, 2014
Silver: Ulla | Bronze: Brasserie L’École | Honourable Mentions: Zambri's, Stage
It's good to see Camille's (Gold) back on top, enthused judges. Stephan Drolet quietly went from long-time chef to owner last year, and his inventive style, steeped in classics but with clever twists, is sensed in every dish on the ambitious, daily-changing menu. Wine list and service are still young but growing. Save room for dessert-Maple & Bourbon is bread pudding served with salted caramel/maple-bourbon ice cream, caramel corn, and a tiny icy glass of bourbon-infused milk. One of the top restaurants not just in Victoria but all of B.C., Ulla (Silver) rests on the shoulders of accomplished, deft chef Brad Holmes and, particularly, composed plates like an ethereal scallop boudin blanc, perfectly cooked octopus, and cod with porcini and lemon olive oil. Comfortable standby Brasserie L'École (Bronze) continues to be the go-to for cleanly prepared bistro fare for nights in need of endive salad, steak frites, and a bottle of Côtes du Rhône.