A Guide To Seattle’s Neatest Neighbourhoods
May 1, 2014
You may think you’ve tapped out the best shops, watering holes, and foodie haunts across the border. But the best of Seattle lies in its residential districts, where locals are devoted to the singular offerings just steps from their front door. Three ’hoods — hipster Ballard, swanky Capitol Hill, and woodsy Madrona — offer an index of the city’s soul and some fantastic finds along the way. Eschew the Space Needle for once, and find out what the guidebooks aren’t telling you.
Six miles north of downtown, across Salmon Bay and the Ballard Bridge, this former Scandinavian fishing port still bares its roots through divey holdouts like the Sloop. But many of the century-old structures that once housed tackle and smoke shops have since been polished and restored to accommodate chic boutiques, creative restaurants, and moody cocktail bars. The Hotel Ballard (Hotelballardseattle.com; from US$189/night) opened along historic Ballard Avenue NW last summer and — despite its jarring, nouveau riche exterior — offers a plush and cozy port of call for enjoying this charming strip of town. A few doors down, seats are hard to come by in the tiny Anchored Ship Coffee Bar (206-484-5143), so grab your morning espresso, then fuel up on a real Mexican breakfast of huevos, sopes, and poblano chilies at Señor Moose Café (Senormoose.com). This historic district is jammed with gift and clothing shops, but don’t pass up the delicate paper works and feather-light jewellery at Curtis Steiner (Curtissteiner.com), odes to 1980s and ’90s (vintage!) style at Prism (Templeofcairo.com), and precious European whatnots at Lucca Great Finds (Luccagreatfinds.com). Lunch should be pulled meat on a pretzel roll at Bitterroot BBQ (Bitterrootbbq.com) — and why fight it if a midday bourbon tempts you, too? Ballard is flanked to the west by Puget Sound, so rent a roadster from Dutch Bike Co. (Dutchbikeco.com; from $12/hour) and pedal to Golden Gardens Park for beachcombing and flecked ice cream cones. (See Seattle’s 2014 Bike Map at Web6.seattle.gov/SDOT/BikeMap.) Aim for happy hour tapas and cocktails at Ocho (Ochoballard.com), but end your day channelling Ballard’s Viking heritage with plates of oysters and smoked fish, and glasses of aquavit at chef Renee Erickson’s famed The Walrus and the Carpenter (Thewalrusbar.com).
In contrast to Ballard’s historic preservation, a radical face-lift recently transformed much of once-scruffy Capitol Hill, a tangle of thriving musicians, coffeehouse devotees, and much of Seattle’s vibrant gay population. Now streets spill with happy partiers drinking up this cultural epicentre, an area that includes the art-deco Seattle Asian Art Museum (Seattleartmuseum.org), picturesque Volunteer Park, the graves of Bruce and Brandon Lee, and dozens of houses of worship dedicated to the cult of excellent food. Settle into the midcentury-modern vibe at Harrison Modern (Harrisonmodern.com; from $99/night), where sleek furnishings complement architect Victor Martin’s 1951 cubic design. Four accommodations are so stylishly kitted out you’ll want to make new friends and host a retro barbecue on the deck of the Garden or South Pacific suite. Otherwise, here breakfast at The Wandering Goose (Thewanderinggoose.com) and lunch at Oddfellows Hall (Oddfellowscafe.com; ask to sit on the secret back patio). Shop NuBe Green (Nubegreen.com) and break the bank on European designs at Totokaelo (Totokaelo.com) — and don’t miss the new men’s branch located downstairs. Walk down the hill for dinner at Melrose Market (Melrosemarketseattle.com), a onetime auto shop now home to independent fooderies, a bar, and shops. Chef Tamara Murphy’s Terra Plata (Terraplata.com) wins out on warm nights: the roof deck lined with grand pots of herbs, salad greens, and flowers is easily the city’s best outdoor dining moment.
A few hillsides from Capitol Hill (or two miles, as the crow flies), rows of classic Craftsman bungalows stack steeply up to Madrona’s paper-thin summit before descending to the shoreline’s running trails along Lake Washington. But you needn’t lace up your hiking boots to appreciate the gems of this shopping-and-foodie enclave. Merchants occupy the flat hilltop around and along 34th Avenue, and the appropriately named Hi Spot Café (Hispotcafe.com) serves as the neighbourhood’s epicentre. If it feels like Madrona’s entire populace lines up mornings for coffee, Frisbee-sized cinnamon rolls, and maple-syrup-spiked brioche French toast, it’s because they do. Nearby Hammer + Awl (Hammerandawl.com), a carefully edited boutique specializing in homegrown men’s accessories, opens early on weekends to help occupy hungry Hi Spot hopefuls with everything from field watches to bow ties to man bags. Down the street, Juniper (Junipermadrona.com) also embraces a locally sourced ethos but with effortlessly cool women’s separates, and Hitchcock (Hitchcockmadrona.com) presents one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces from indie designers. Local darling chef and restaurant impresario Ethan Stowell just opened Red Cow (Ethanstowell-restaurants.com), a French brasserie focusing on life’s basics: steak, frites, and a good bottle of wine. Across the street, Bottlehouse (Bottlehouseseattle.com) offers creative small bites, charcuterie, and savoury sandwiches in an unassuming Victorian house above the Wilridge Winery (Wilridgewinery.com). The downside to this goodness? Thanks to strict zoning laws, hotels are rarities in Seattle’s residential neighbourhoods. Happily, historic Sorrento Hotel (Hotelsorrento.com; from $209/night) is just a five-minute cab ride away. Book a corner suite, gaze toward the hills of Seattle, and plot your exploration of the city’s other districts. (Madison Park and Georgetown, perhaps?)