Outdoor Education: Vancouver by sea, snow and land

Some of Vancouver's greatest assets lie just outside its city centre. Searching for the quintessential west coast experience? Get thee to the great outdoors. By Tyee Bridge

The mountains and forests of Vancouver’s North Shore are more than just decorative
frosting for (if we do say so ourselves) an attractive city. And no, you don’t have to be
a teenage mountain biker to enjoy them. Hiking, snowshoeing, nature walks, kayaking and river-dipping are all within easy reach of downtown. Following are some samples of Vancouver’s almost-wild edges—three accessible, affordable and downright delightful
outdoor experiences—to give you a taste of what’s out there.

BY SEA
Indian Arm is a miniature version of the B.C.-Alaska Inside Passage, minus the nasty squalls and rip currents. An 18-kilometre fjord surrounded by the Coast Mountains and carpeted with a forest of hemlock, cedar and Douglas fir, the Arm makes for a mellow and scenic day paddle. The put-in at Deep Cove is only 20 minutes away from downtown, making an afternoon kayak a surreal experience when you’ve been surrounded by office towers mere moments before. As traditional fishing and hunting grounds for several local First Nations including the Squamish and Tsleil-Waututh bands, the entire inlet north of the Twin Islands has been preserved as a provincial park, and houses are few. When motorboat engines and passing sailboats are out of sight (the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club maintains a rustic inn near the head of the inlet), there’s a palpable sense of being in another century.

If you go, keep your eye out for eagles and deer, as well as harbour seals, who tend to hang out on the rocks of the western shore near Silver Falls. Spring brings millions of moon jellies (jellyfish) to the Arm—making swimming a bit spooky—but they’re basically harmless. (Avoid the larger, reddish-orange Lion’s Mane jellyfish that show up later in the summer—they can pack a nasty sting.) Equally spooky are two gothic power stations built by BC Hydro in the early 1900s. Though they look defunct, one is still in operation—kicking out about 75,000 kilowatts of power as well as occasional surges of water from Buntzen Lake. Picnic spots abound on the Arm’s islets and along the shore, but save room for the amazing doughnuts at Honey Doughnuts and Goodies in Deep Cove (4373 Gallant Avenue, 604-929-4988) when you get back. Boats, gear, lessons and tours are available at Deep Cove Canoe and Kayak, 604-929-2268.

To get there, take Trans-Canada Highway 1 over the Second Narrows Bridge towards North Vancouver. Take the first exit to the right, #23B Dollarton Highway. Follow Dollarton to its end right onto Deep Cove’s main street, Gallant Avenue.

BY SNOW
Snowshoeing at night is one of the great pleasures of Vancouver in the winter. When it’s raining and dreary in the city, it’s usually crisp and snowing above the 900-metre mark. Tromping through fresh snow under a full moon—headlamp switched off, a Thermos of hot chocolate in your backpack—is a wonderful combination of rigorous exercise, alpine peace and indulgent escape. Cypress Mountain offers snowshoe terrain in two flavours: in the designated alpine resort, and out-of-bounds in the surrounding provincial park.

Nighttime trekking is prohibited on the Cypress Mountain resort trails unless you’re on a tour. The resort’s Starlite Adventure Tour takes you through snowed meadows and forest trails for a two-hour trip ending at Hollyburn Lodge, a charming and rustic chalet serving food, drinks and occasionally live acoustic music. Basic winter gear is required (hiking boots, warm socks, ski jackets, toques, etc.), and for the $44 fee, snowshoes, poles and headlamps are provided. For more information and advance booking, check their website, or call the resort at 604-926-5612.

If you’re there by day, you can head to a great beginner trail in the provincial park, which starts at the very end of the cross-country parking lot (you can’t miss the trailhead once you hit the end of the lot). The trails weave through the woods and, while separate from the resort, are never too far from the groomed runs. Fortunately, they’re also not far from the fire pit—stocked with roasting sticks and marshmallows for the kiddies—and other winter comforts of Hollyburn Lodge. If you choose to rent your gear before you hit the mountain, the best bets are Altus Mountain Gear (604-876-5255) on West Broadway or Mountain Equipment Co-op (604-872-7858), right across the street.

To get to Cypress from downtown, take the Lions Gate Bridge and follow the signs to Highway 1, via Taylor Way. Head west on Highway 1 to Exit #8, Cypress Bowl Road, and follow it for 13 kilometres (8 miles) to the cross country/snowshoe parking lot.

BY LAND
The Capilano Suspension Bridge is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Vancouver, and there is something to be said for swaying over a 230-foot, vertigo-inducing chasm. But if you prefer to avoid the madding crowds and the $26-per-person entry fee, there are other options. Capilano River Regional Park is a 400-acre evergreen forest surrounding the Capilano River, which runs out of a dam spillway at Capilano Lake. A network of trails runs throughout the park, offering a much less populous landscape of sword ferns, river pools and steep granite canyons—as well as the occasional river kayaker shooting the Class III rapids.

A good place to start is the federally managed Capilano Fish Hatchery (where, through the plexiglass fishway, you can see returning adult steelhead, and coho salmon). You’ll also find a good trail map here: all trails are easy on the eyes and the legs, but one of the best is the Capilano Pacific Trail that winds along the west side of the river. Two other trails of note: the Second Canyon Viewpoint Trail gives some dramatic upstream views, and the Giant Fir Trail leads you to Grandpa Capilano, a 61-metre old-growth Douglas fir that was putting down roots when Columbus was still in diapers.

To access the hatchery entrance to the park, take the Lions Gate Bridge to Highway 1 and take the Capilano Road/Grouse Mountain exit. Head north on Capilano Road and turn left on Capilano Park Road, just past Edgemont Boulevard. The parking lot is at the end of the road.