Is Lucky Tacos a worthy successor to Supermarine?

Sadly, the Kitsilano taqueria feels rushed

September 21, 2016

By Michael White

When it became undeniable that their one-year-old seafood restaurant, Supermarine, was flailing, owners James Iranzad and Josh Pape closed shop and, with impressive haste, reopened it in July as a colourful taqueria. The menu is reportedly the result of one and a half years of development (originally intended for another location), but its public debut nevertheless seems premature. Despite a nicely succinct number of items—seven tacos and seven appetizers (or “snackos”)—flavours are tame, occasionally to the point of nonexistence; the three commercial hot sauces (plus a good house-made chipotle concoction) at each table should feel like an option, not a necessity. Churros—the sole dessert offering—arrived under-fried and immediately broke upon contact with a too-stiff chocolate dip. Props, at least, for an authentically tart (albeit small) margarita and some other inventive tequila cocktails.

Lucky Taco
1685 Yew St.

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