Review: Savio Volpe Is the Destination Restaurant in Town
The osteria will make you want to move to the neighbourhood.
November 16, 2016
The proprietors behind Savio Volpe—L’Abbatoir’s Paul Grunberg, chef Mark Perrier and restaurant designer Craig Stanghetta—would have you believe that their new venture is just a casual little neighbourhood joint. You know, the sort of place residents of the Fraserhood can pop in for a casual bite. Yeah right. Savio Volpe has instead become the destination restaurant in town, with a forever-full reservation list that doesn’t inspire the words: “Hey honey, let’s go see if Savio Volpe has room.” It would all be a tad annoying if the fuss weren’t so warranted.
The room, designed by Stanghetta, is gorgeous but relaxed, with a big centre bar acting as a hive for tables in each direction. The menu changes with the season, but so far the retro garlic bread all‘Americano, a kale salad invigorated with pangrattato and romano, and a simple but succulent roast chicken cooked in a wood-fired oven have been standouts. The cocktail list is small and on-point, and everything on it is a neighbourhoody $9. The well-curated wine list likewise keeps markups reasonable. Maybe it is a neighbourhood restaurant in the sense that it’s so well done it makes you want to move to the neighbourhood.
Open daily from 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m.