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An expanded spaceÑand menuÑfor Zipang (the original micro spot, sans ÒProvisions,Ó remains open at Main and 21st) offers a spacious patio and an airy room. While the creative, modern sushi rolls bring a touch of whimsy (try the cute Caterpillar, with BBQ eel, cucumber, and avocado), the quality of the classic rolls has created a loyal following. The cooked food, however, is where Zipang distinguishes itself: the sweet silkiness of the nasudengaku (miso grilled eggplant) okonomiyaki (Japanese pizza) grilled kama (fish collars), and made-to-order chawanmushi. For a different take, try the inventive saladsÑtofu and bacon or the gingery pork shabu-shabu. There are also decent sake and shochu lists, as well as a few Asian-influenced cocktails. Lunch on weekends only.

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