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This metropolitan room, all soaring ceilings and blond wood, is the most exciting seafood restaurant in the city. And while a tad pricey, the dishes are superlativeÑwhen paired by discreet but Ÿber-competent service it makes Yew one of the city’s unsung heroes on the fine-dining scene. The paella with Ocean Wise seafood is excellent, as is the halibut with vegetables and pistachio puree. And the menu offers some surprisesÑa vegan lunch and dinner program that gives animal-free eating the white-glove treatment (the mini tacos are the bomb). The wine list is huge and has some impossible-to-source gems but spends scant time on anything under $60. It is, after all, the Four Seasons Hotel. Video.Vanmag.com

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