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Ui Ratsomjit and chef Maitee Yangsuwan’s distinct regional backgrounds make for a menu influenced by both northeastern Isaan and southern Thai flavours. The modern space has seen a considerable facelift, its saffron walls punctuated by red accents and dark woodÑa marked improvement from its tired predecessor. Fan the flames with the tiger beef salad (yum neau), tender strips of marinated beef grilled and tossed with cucumber, tomatoes, chilies, onions, and greens. Stir-fried dishes are bright and fresh pad bai gaprow is a garlicky jumble of green beans, bell peppers, carrots, Thai holy basil, and your protein of choice. Red curry duck balances the deep heat of red chilies with sweet lychees. Pass on the crme brélée and stick with traditional mango atop coconut sticky rice for a sweet finish.

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