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Recycled industrial/nostalgia decor and tiny tables only serve to amp up the noise and intimacy of this hopping two-storey neighbourhood favourite. Unfussy but pro service, really solid food, and a value-priced wine listÑdon’t expect stemware (it’s chunky tumblers all the way), but that’s fine because they suit the mood and the food. Homey comfort is the theme (seasoning is enthusiastic): highlights include a perfectly dressed salad of pickled radish and greens wine-braised beef cheeks served in a cast-iron skillet atop rich gratin potatoes and lemony wilted spinach tangy meatballs utterly delicious smashed-then-fried potatoes and parsnip fries with fragrant, addictive coriander ketchup. Save room for crispy sugared doughnuts with rum-caramel sauce.

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