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This usually buzzing roomÑsister to Italian KitchenÑhas won a devoted following by combining a happening ambiance with food that’s reasonably priced and sometimes exceeds expectations: linguine carbonara, for example, is not the sloppy, overcooked mess you find in some rooms but rather a beautiful balance of ingredients. Veal piccataÑoften over-saucedÑis similarly exacting and restrained. Caprese salad lets you choose your cheese (burrata or fior di latte). A seat at the counter makes for fun, sometimes frantic, kitchen-watching.

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