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Repeat winner of the Vancouver magazine award for Best Formal Japanese, Hidekazu Tojo has recited his brand of Japanese seafood haiku at his eponymous restaurant for more than 25 years. At the dramatic (and quiet) premises on Broadway, signatures of albacore tuna tataki, baked sablefish, and sautéed halibut cheeks shine. A sake bar, omakase bar, and tatami rooms rim the room. Stars and moguls aboundÑbring money if you want to keep up. Sushi-bar stools are amongst the most coveted in town, and sushi is what Tojo is renowned for. But he works magic on the stovetop too: witness his smoked black cod in a slightly sweet broth, and sea urchin tongues baked au gratin with rich chunks of smoked sablefish, geoduck, and crab, brightened with fresh yuzu and served in the spiky urchin shell on a blanket of sea-salt snow. Video.Vanmag.com

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