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Owners Jean-Francis and Alessandra Quaglia wanted to revamp the front stretch of their Provence Marinaside restaurant in Yaletown. The answer came from sommelier Rachelle Goudreau, who proposed a more casual, wine-focused adjunct to the Quaglias’ venerable temple to Southern France. The resulting space is long and thin, with 30 seats stretching along the view-greedy windows and, against the back wall, an inviting bar with three champagne-cup chandeliers above and the star of the show behind: two separate wine-dispensing units (a by-the-glass system for high-end bottles, and wine taps) serving the city’s largest selection. Small platesÑpissaladire, risotto balls, calamariÑare $5 or $6 bigger plates (moules frites, tenderloin tartine), $18

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