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Black + Blue’s rooftop takes the steakhouse out of ersatz dark-panelled rooms and jolts it with West Coast glamour and lightness, and a menu that ripples with freshness and vigour. Skewers of chicken and seafood, grilled over glowing mesquite, emerge with a smoky lusciousness, served on beds of virtuous quinoa. The blazing hardwood lends a rich crustiness to the succulent dry-aged steaks (the PEI Blue Ribbon Prime is particularly great). Even the desserts show admirable restraint—the dark chocolate 20-layer cake avoids sugary gooeyness with clouds of whipped cream and pops of brandied cherries. The beautiful, airy patio grooves with the friendly vibe of a Coal Harbour block party, and the warmly vigilant service makes everyone feel like a VIP.

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