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The best vegetarian restaurants are ones where the food surprises youÑand the chefs here are mad tofu-loving scientists who eschew the idea that meatless food should riff off carnivore staples. There are no veggie burgers on the menu, but rather beautifully plated, seasonally changing inventions that are as satisfying as any protein. The drink menu is short but sweet: try one of the signature cocktails. The roomÑa warm blur of trendy minimalist wood and whiteÑis lively and buzzing, even late on a Tuesday, so come prepared for a wait. Reservations only for six-plus closed Monday.

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