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the return of family scion and Hong Kong award-winning chef Robert Wong, the bar for Sichuan authenticity has been raised. There’s Peking duck, and the toothpick-speared beef comes buried in a pile of fagara chili peppers. Call ahead for deep-fried lychee fortune chicken: addictive morsels of heat, spice, and sweetness. Service is friendly regulars are greeted by name.

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