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A wise judge once said, ÒSon, the world needs ditch diggers, too.Ó In the 400-strong universe of Vancouver sushi restaurants, that means that not everyone can be Hidekazu Tojo. But what is needed day in, day out, is a clean, well-lit place that serves sound fish at humane prices. In Kerrisdale, find Sushi Hachi, where the menu runs to an inspired green bean tempura roll hiding among the stalwarts. Cut the sake off when the giant octopus mural on the wall recalls 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.

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