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Unlike the city’s many student-targeted Korean restaurants, Sura takes an uncommonly refined approach, presenting more finely tuned flavours in elegant surroundings. Little side dishes (banchan) are a good indicator of the kitchen’s conscientiousness, and here they’re well thought out and unusual (spicy deep-fried burdock root, for example). Barbecue galbi beef ribs are classically cut, the meat unfurling from the rib bone to deliver a more open and tender grain. Bossam pork belly may omit the traditional chopped oysters, but the marriage of meaty pork, kimchi funk, and braised napa cabbage is spot-on. Set lunches are an exceptional deal, featuring 13 to 15 dishes that manage to strike a balance between gluttony and delicacy. (Note: The Richmond location features tabletop grills and can more easily handle large groups.)