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This bare-bones spot serves superior Northern Chinese noodles. Addictive Òcutting noodles,Ó sliced off mounds of dough, are fried with meats and vegetables (and lots of garlic). ÒPushingÓ noodles are cut into strands, blanched, and served in seafood soup, while ÒdraggingÓ noodles are hand-spun and served in a clear stock with spiced beef. All arrive within minutes. A good lunch bet.

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