Guangzhou, with its access to seafood and fertile river delta, is considered the finest food region in China. Sea Harbour (part of a respected group from China) embraces the abundance of the region by using strong condiments and herbs (like fermented olive leaves) and emphasizing seafood, both dried and fresh. The result is what the Chinese call ÒwildÓ flavours, as opposed to the restrained Hong Kong style of Cantonese cuisine. (The room, a riot of shine and glitter, is a little wild, too.) Local sea cucumber, sauteed with green onion, XO sauce, or salty chili, has the savoury flavour and texture of fresh shiitake mushrooms. Roasted squab is deep-fried, braised, or stir-fried, and is the best in Vancouver. And there is no better place to enjoy local spot prawns, wok-fried with sweet soy, the shells imbued with iron heat.