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Don’t let the humble French Cultural Centre setting dissuade you. The rich scents of brothed mussels and proper shoestring frites jet you instantly to the Boulevard St. Germain and, aided by the unobtrusive service and no-fuss house wine list, time slows wa-a-a-y down. The grilled steaks are no-fail and the daily six-inch pizza showcases seasonal ingredients cooked with the patience only a maman could have. Atmosphere comes to twinkling life at night, with weekly specials like Cajun tuna, grilled quail, duck leg confit, and porterhouse steak. Note: cash only, closed Sundays and Mondays.

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