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Among high-end Cantonese restaurants, Red Star has a secret weapon: spectacular in-house-roasted meats. Despite rather soggy pancake wraps, the crisply lacquered Peking duck, followed by lettuce wraps, is divine. The roasted suckling pig has a seismically crackling skin and, for an over-the-top experience, can be pre-ordered whole, head and all (minimum two days’ notice). The green beans with pork and Chinese olives are simply delicious. The dim sum lunch is justifiably popular, with all the classics amply represented.

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