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High-end Japanese restaurants have an inherently glamorous tension: the opulence amplifies and heightens the beautiful simplicity of the food. Tucked in a marble-clad corner of the Pacific Rim’s Lobby Lounge, RawBar ups the ante (and prices) by serving only 100-percent Ocean Wise sushi. Restrained embellishments bring dimension and sparkle to the fore: halibut tightened with a light pickling, sablefish made buttery with gentle grilling, raw scallops invigorated with a jolt of shiso. The real highlight, incongruous for a raw bar, is steamed-to-order Manila clams, their impeccable freshness deepened by the clean, resinous sweetness of Granville Island craft sake. Give the room a pass on Friday and Saturday nights, when scene-making is at full volume. Instead, come for a civilized lunch.

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