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The second of three Coast Hotel-based dining rooms (others in Chilliwack and Kamloops). Happily, Vancouver’s menu upgrade broke from the pack, swapping yam fries and pad Thai for more urban treats like tangy Pernod-compressed watermelon and beet salad ($12), Brome Lake duck breast with blueberry jus and a crispy-soft croquette, or B.C. bison on a hearty chorizo, yam, and celeriac hash. The Canadiana continues with a strangely sophisticated peanut butter Nanaimo bar.

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