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Good pho is a life-sustaining meal that manages to combine most of the major food groups in one bowl. From the encyclopedic pho list, choose pho tai nam. Long-kettled beef bones produce the base broth (which we’ve found inconsistent, but when it’s good, it’s very good). It’s clarified (a bit of alchemy), then transferred to litre-size service bowls. Sliced rare beef and braised brisket are added over rice noodles, whole stems of basil leaves, and a dice of fresh chilies. Char-grilled chicken leg and pork chop are divine chilled Vietnamese coffee is a must.

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