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As la vita Neapolitana overruns the city, we become ever more anxious about authenticity. Is the kindling too aromatic? Has the Type ÒOOÓ flour been finely enough ground? Novo’s Carmine Paradiso is not free of this angst, but the simplicity he brings to the menuÑbuilt on the pillars of cheese, meat, and doughÑkeeps dining honest. The salami/olive pie comes nicely charred and generously topped, the fior di latte cheese the key to the harmonious flavours. The room hops on weekends, service is solid, and the wine list is focused.

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