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Sri Lankan-style kingfish curry is light and brothy compared to the gravy-like stews you’ll be served in the north. It’s a sharp one-two bite of tangy tamarind and hot chilies. Sop it up with a fistful of flaky southern-style paratha bread. Nooru Mahal’s idllyÑfluffy, sourdough-like steamed rice cakesÑare perfect models. Singaporean staff have also lent their touch to the menu: Sri Lankan string hoppersÑpatties of fine rice noodlesÑget a Singaporean treatment with coconut and palm sugar to make puttu mayam. ÒOnly in Canada,Ó says chef Raj Aiyathurai of his creation.

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