The name means Òcoriander scent,Ó and to co-owner Nghi DoÑwho left Vietnam 30 years ago and worked in restaurants across North America until opening his ownÑit’s not unimportant: on a stretch of Kingsway nicknamed Little Saigon, authenticity doesn’t set you apart it ensures survival. All the components are here: fragrant herbs, searing chilies, tart lime juice, pungent fish sauce, and servings large enough to feed a group. Goi gˆ is a heaping platter of poached chicken breast, crisp white cabbage, roasted shallots, and shards of peanuts to garnish, dressed in a thin but piquant sauce. Southern-style kho to (caramelized meat) is intensely salty but meant to be eaten with lots of rice, a way of stretching a little protein a long way it’s cooked and served in a hand-hammered metal pot so that the sugars in the sauce caramelize into a deliciously sticky shell.