Its namesake is an old-school wonton house in Hong Kong, where only VIP customers order off-menu and grumpy waiters speed you through your meal with hyper-efficiency. Luckily, this unrelated Richmond resto takes a more democratic approach. Served in small, Hong Kong portions, the noodles have a toothsome bite and the broth is deep and clear. Start off with the gold-standard wonton and noodles in soup, and decide on your second plate as you finish your firstÑwe recommend beef brisket lo mein: tender brisket braised with star anise, nestled in noodles. Add a dish of steamed gailan with oyster sauce to round out your meal.