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The room is an airy ode to colonial décor, and if you squint you can imagine you’re interloping in the officers’ mess in Bangalore. The cuisine eschews nouvelle flourishes in favour of traditional Indian cuisine. Offerings such as chicken chettinad and malai curry jumbo prawns will not dazzle you with their ingenuity, only their taste. Maurya takes resos and has a brilliant online takeout site. The patio features its own chef working on an outdoor tandoori oven.

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