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Owner/chef Julio Gonzalez Perini delivers in the charming heritage house that he built into one of Vancouver’s finest, as Villa del Lupo, back in the ’90s. But this is no retro redux. The old romantic hideaway has been brightened up (in white paint splashed with abstract art) and scaled back (less pretension, lower prices). Lusty Italian classics are reinvented with local, seasonal ingredients. Pasta lovers will be torn between pappardelle with rabbit ragout and raviloi stuffed with spinach and bufala mozzarella. Spectacular desserts will entice you to linger.

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