With long wait lists (and only 32 seats to the room), something had to give with our former restaurant of the year, La Quercia. Enter L’ufficio, the little ÒofficeÓ next door, whose joint kitchen means the same award-winning dishes with less of a reservation headache. In contrast to the clean black-and-white décor of La Quercia, L’ufficio’s cozy wooden walls make it feel more like a Piedmont trattoria than a Kitsilano wine bar. By-the-glass options are exclusively Italian, but prices stay moderate and the varietals plentiful. Offerings from the kitchen rotate with the seasons, but many of their popular dishes (piquant vitello tonatto) are brilliant and always available.