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While Chef Angus An’s Maenam (in Kitsilano) introduced us to the subtle sophistication of Royal cuisine, his Longtail takes inspiration from Westminster Quay’s riverfront location and highlights Thailand’s spectacular street foods. Crispy deep-fried local oysters are paired with a rousingly vibrant dipping sauce (you’ll want to pour it over everything). The pad Thai, with buoyant noodles and plump shrimp, dressed in a sauce bright with tamarind and underpinned with chili heat, is simply the best in the city. Throughout the menu, the balance between the heat of bird’s-eye chilies, the sweetness of palm sugar, the sour of lime and tamarind, and the salty savour of fish sauce, is elegantly fine-tuned. The room is equally clean and fresh, with an open kitchen and service counter facing a seating area that unfolds onto a patio and lush river views.

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