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Serving a happy mix of rustic Shanghainese and Sichuan foods, this little neighbourhood favourite keeps busy throughout the day. Hand-crimped steamed pork buns burst with housemade stock. The drunken chicken is served warm, which brings the Chinese rice wine to the fore. The beef pancake roll, light yet chewy, is nicely dressed with hoisin sauce. Sandy, the one front-of-house person, acts as charming hostess, efficient waitress, and speedy busperson, all with amazing, gregarious energy.

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