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Few things conjure up the old country less than sitting on a patio that looks upon a nondescript strip mall far removed from the vibe of the Drive. Despite the suspect digs, Lombardo’s succeeds (and has for more than 25 years) because of the pizza that emerges from the wood-burning oven: its crust always delivers the right mix of chewy and crispy. Traditional pies, like the classic funghi (all pizzas are $15 for medium, $26 for large), are best, but choose wisely they all sound like classics in vowel-y Italian: Salmone, Vegetariana, etc. The homemade focaccia is perfect dipped in some bracing balsamico.

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