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A steady stream of diners fills the seats at this bright and bustling East Side eatery. Pho is the mainstay of any Vietnamese restaurant, and pho tai bo vien is an approachable initiation: rice noodles immersed in a subtly seasoned broth with meatballs and thinly sliced rare beef. Garnish to taste from the accompanying condiment plate of crisp bean sprouts, basil sprigs, a slice of lime, and chili. Goi kho bo is a flavourful haystack of contrasting tastes and texturesÑshredded green papaya topped with sweet beef jerky and basil in a piquant dressing. Refresh your palate with a tall glass of icy da chanhÑand be sure to ask for added soda. Cash only, closed Wednesdays.

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