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A chef’s chef, modest Alsatian Michel Jacob consistently draws fans (and not just from Vancouver) to his sunny, yellow-walled room. Food displays the consistency that marks a great restaurant, seen in not just the signature onion tart and tomato-and-gin soup but also those glorious prawns with pasta, and sweetbreads with foie gras. Think modern French freshness with a thoroughly Gallic use of creamÑand that applies to the service, too. Regulars sign up for the annual choucroute fest in February. As in France, plats du jour are always a good bet.

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