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If La Quercia is not perfect, it’s definitely the most honest place in town. There are no PR flacks milling about, no air kissing, and no semi-ironic taxidermy. Instead there are two proprietorsÑAdam Pegg and Lucais SymeÑwho take a yeoman-like approach to the craft of running a first-rate restaurant. One gets the impression that nothing leaves the kitchen that they don’t approve of. The predominantly Northern Italian menu changes frequently, with classics like Branzino with fennel and vitello Tonnato making frequent appearances. The wine list is all-Italian and full of interesting bottles.

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