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This old-school haunt, in the Italian Cultural Centre, is serious about its food. The room, a monument to Old World Italy, is large and open, yet the linen-clad tables still manage to feel intimate. During the day, businessmen in Italian suits press the flesh at night, starry-eyed couples sip Chianti to the strains of opera, occasionally punctuated by a crooning Dean Martin. Chef Claudio’s menu features a stellar selection of meats, seafood, fowl, and pasta, and the wine list strolls from Piemonte to Calabria. Tops are housemade tortelliniÑbites of pillowy perfection.

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