How you feel about La Cigale will depend on how enchanted you are by charm. There’s a portable chalkboard with the daily specialsÑen franais, naturally. The waiters have that casual Montparnasse charm (even though ours was from N”mes), and tap water in an old-timey carafe is served without a spiel about its origin. The truth is Cigale may be the most authentic of the city’s bistros: the menu is all French save for when it’s Algerian-French, and the dishes are well executed if under-seasoned. The exception was duck confit with potatoes that was a model of its kind. The wine list is likewise all French, and it’s a hair overpricedÑespecially for a bistroÑbut there are bargains lurking. (The Latour chardonnay and a wonderful Chemin des Olivettes from Languedoc are both steals.)